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Softener | Softening

# Softening:
The treatments which make the fabric more flexible and pliable impart the impression of softness. Softness generally comes from making the fibre themselves more flexible and decreasing inter fibre friction. Therefore softening agents plasticize fibers and lubricate the surface of fibers which can produce softness. Softness of fabric can be enhanced either by mechanical or chemical treatment.

* Characteristic of softening:
(i) The hand imparted and the properties of a softener depend on the physical state of softener, its chemical structure and behavior or the fabric.
(ii) Low viscosity liquid softener produces a flexible, silky hand.
(iii) Solid softeners provide, lubrication but less pliable
(iv) Softeners are sometimes implicated in quality and environmental problems.
(v) Some softeners adversely affect light-fastness and rubbing fastness.

# Types of softeners:
(1) An-ionic softener
(2) Cationic softener
(3) Non-ionic softener
(4) Amphoteric softener
(5) Others (Silicone, polyethylene emulsion)

Water repellent finishing

• Make the surface energy of a fabric such that a substance does not spread on the fabric and makes it resistant to water.
• Repellent finishes modify the surface of fibre but do not block the inter stitches. So the fabric remains porous to air and water vapor.

Wrinkle free finishing | Anti crease finishing

Causes of crease formation: Wrinkle occurs when the fabric is severely bent, H-bond between the molecular chains in the amorphous region of the fibre breaks allowing the chains to slip past one another. The bonds reform in new places and hold creases the fibre and fabric.

Principle of anti-crease finishing:

Resist to creasing is imparted to cellulosic fibers by resisting the slippage of molecular chains. Chair slippage can be restricted by adding chemical cross links between the molecular chains in amorphous resigns of the fibre or by deposition of polymeric materials in the amorphous regions.

Cell ^{– oH} + x – Reactant – X + HO – Cell ® Cell – O – Reactant – O – Cell + 2 Hx

Cross – linking of Cellulose is done at high temperature or dry fabric to impart crease resistance and dimensional stability to the fabric.

What is mercerizing

    Mercerizing is the process of subjecting color fibers to the action of a fairly concentrated solution of a strong base (sodium hydroxide, 50-70 degree T_W and 18⁰c temp) So as to produce great swelling with resultant changes in fine structure, dimension, morphology and mechanical properties.

Factors influence the finishing process | Classification of finishes

 Factors influence the finishing process:

(1)  The type of fiber and its arrangement in yarn and fabric.

(2)  The physical properties of fibre (such as swelling properties/ capacity, frictional properties, and state of fibre (dry/ wet)

(3)  The receptivity of the textile materials for absorbing various finishing preparation.

(4)  The susceptibility of the textile materials to chemical modification.

 Classification of finishes:

Textile finishes are classified in to several ways. The most common classification is:

(a)     Aesthetic finishes (which modify the appearance and or hand/ drape of fabrics.

(b)     Functional finishes (which improves the performance properties of fabrics.

Textile finishing

Definition:

          Finishing is a general terms which refers to the treatment on textile materials after dyeing and printing and before the textile materials are cut and sewn into any articles of textiles.

The objects of finishing are to improve the attractiveness and service ability of the fabrics/ materials, Function of finishes include the following.

(1)    To introduce some natural characteristics of the textile materials, such as softening, stiffening, sequestering, delustering, brightening and changing surface characteristic.

(2)    To impart new characteristics or properties to the textile materials such as durable press finishes, flame retardant, and water proof.

(3)    To increase life and durability of the textile materials.

(4)    To set the textile materials, so it maintains its shape and structure

(5)    To set dyes, and other substances.

Dying with sulphur dyes

Definition:       The sulphur dye contains “-s-S-” linkage in its chemical structure and here it is so called.

Chemistry of dyeing with sulphur dyes:

          Sulphur dyes are water insoluble and need reduction for solubilization. After solubilization it is applied in the fibers and oxidation is necessary for making the dyes insoluble again in the fibers. The dye is similar to vat dye during application.

                  

Properties of sulphur dyes:

(1)       Sulphur dyes are complex hetero cyclic molecules containing sulphur linkage.

(2)       Dyes are excessively amorphous a few show crystalline.

(3)       Water insoluble and chemical composition varies among the producers.

(4)       Applied specially for black shades in the cellulosic fibers.

(5)       Fastness properties average to good.

(6)       Cheap and easy to apply.

(7)       Oxidation is necessary for final shade development

Dying with Disperse Dyes

Definition:

          Disperse dyes are free of ionizing groups water insoluble and suitable for dyeing hydrophobic textile materials from colloid dispersion. The dye is so called because it is molecularly dispensed and dispersing agent is necessary for dying with dyes.

Properties:

1.     Non – ionic in nature.

2.     Insoluble in water.

3.     Applied in Acidic condition (p^H @ 4.5-5.5)

4.     Dispersing Agent is used for making dye – dispersion.

5.     Fastness properties good to excellent.

6.     Suitable for acetates, polyamide and polyester fibers.

Printing with reactive dyes process sequence

Process sequences:

          Fabric preparation

                   ß                                    (i) All in method

          Printing with reactive days

                   ß                                    (ii) 2-stage method

          Fixation of dyes by steaming

                   ß      

          Cold washing

                   ß

          Wash at boil

                   ß

            Cold wash

                   ß

               Drying

Ice color | Magic color

·        Ice color: The azoic color is sometime called ice-color because the Base or diazo component of the color is diazotised at low temperature (0-5⁰C) for converting in the soluble forms.

·        Magic color: Azoic color is called magic color in views of its versatility. Different colors are obtained by combing different base with same napthol, and large no. of shades can be made.

Azoic Color | Properties of azoic color

Definition: Azoic dyes are not ‘ready – made’ dyes but are produced through an in-site process which creates the colored material directly on the fabric by a coupling reaction between napthol/ coupling component and diazo component.

Properties:

(1)  Water insoluble dyes.

(2)  There ere two component of dye molecule.

(3)  Color is developed by a coupling reaction.

(4)  Applied in alkaline condition.

(5)  Very suitable for cellulosic fibers.

(6)  It is applied for bright colors.

(7)  Fastness properties good.

(8)  Comparatively cheap in price.

Dyeing with reactive dye

Definitions:

          reactive dye is only class of dye which makes co-valent bond with the fiber and become a part of it. The co-valent bond is formed at alkaline condition.

Fibre + reactive dye Þ Fibre dye

(Nacl & Na2So4)       Covalent 6ond

Properties of reactive dyes:

(1)  An – ionic in nature.

(2)  Soluble in water and a certain amount (10.40%) in hydrolyzed during dyeing.

(3)  Form strong co-valent with the fibers and applied in cellulosic fibre.

(4)  Better light and weathering fastness properties.

(5)  Have better substantivity.

(6)  Dyeing in carried out at alkaline condition.

(7)  Electrolyte is necessary for exhaustion of dyes in the fibre

Influencing factor:

(1)  p^H (³10-12).

(2)  Temperature (30⁰-80⁰C)

(3)  Concentration of Salt (40 g/L – 100 g/L)

(4)  Time of dyeing.

(5)  M:L Ratio (1: 7/8/10)

Widely used reactive dyes:

(1)  Cabacron R- dyes

(2)  Livafix R- dyes

(3)  Remazol R- dyes

(4)  Procion R – dyes

(5)  Drimarine R- dyes

Properties of vat dyes

(1)     Water insoluble dyes.

(2)     Needs vatting for application.

(3)     Needs oxidation for final color development.

(4)     Excellent color fastness properties (wet, light fastness)

(5)     Applicable for cellulosic fibers.

(6)     Wide range of color can be produced, specially for blue and green color.

(7)     Expensive dyes compared to other dies.

(8)     Applied, in al alkaline condition

(9)     Applied for high quality items.

Vat dyes

The word vat means, ‘Vessel’. The dyes take their name from vatting. The vat dyes are naturally coloring matter and kept in wooden vat and make solubilise vat dyes by the process of formantation – so it is called vat dyes.

Stages in dying with vat dyes:

(i)    Vatting

(ii) Dying

(iii) Oxidation

Water hardness | Hardness scales

Water hardness:

Water hardness is a term applied to water devoting a measurement of its p^H and metal salts, content water hardness usually classified in the two groups.

-         Temporary hardness (pressure of Ca and mg bicarbon)

-         Permanent hardness (presence of Ca & Mg sulphate and chloride)

r Hardness Scales:

Description                                       Definition

1⁰ d H (German) Hardness Þ 10⁰ mg Ca0 in 1 liter of water

1⁰ f H (France) Hardness Þ 10⁰ mg CaCo₃ in 1 liter of water

1⁰ e^H (English) Hardness Þ 10⁰ mg CaCo₃ in 0.7 liter of water

1 AH (American) Hardness Þ 1 mg Caco₃ in 1 liter of water

Use of water in textile processing

Water is used extensively throughout textile processing operations. Water is considered as the life time of wet processing in industry because it is the single most used chemical. The amount of H2O used varies (1-2 Lac gallon/ day) depending on pacific processes operated at the mill, equipment used prevailing management philosophy concerning water use. Water is used in the following plants.

(1)  Boiler: Supplying steam for heating and drying

(2)  W.P.T: For desizing, scouring, bleaching, mercerizing dyeing, printing and finishing and washing.

What is dyeing

Ans.: Dyeing is a distribution process in which dye-pigment is distributed into two phases or phase system that is the dye/ pigment solution or bath and the textile materials.

Dyeing machine

# Classification of dying machine

                        1.     Fiber/ loose dyeing m/c

2.     yarn dyeing m/c

(a)  Hank dyeing m/c

(b)  Package dyeing m/c

(c)   Beam dyeing m/c

3. Fabric dyeing m/c

          (a) Jigger dyeing m/c (woven)

          (b) Winch dyeing m/c (knit)

          (c) Jet dyeing m/c (woven/ knit)

          (d) Beam dyeing m/c (knit)

4.       Garments dyeing m/c